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It's getting colder and even if we didn't start fall/autumn season already, we can easily smell the autumn in the air. It's also a good time for skin care treatments such as acids. I've been using different acids during the year - glycolic acid or mandelic acid but I've never tried an acid in a cream until last month when Jolse send me Nakeup Face 10% Glycolic Acid AHA Scaling Cream. Is it all that your skin needs during the autumn?
Couple words about brand
The name Nakeup Face comes from mixing naked face and no makeup. From what I understand (my Korean is pretty weak), the first products from this brand came in 2014. The brand not only focuses on skincare but also on natural look of the face.
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Packaging
Let's focus on the most important things! If it comes to scaling creams there are two things that are important to us - additional lid and spatula. This product contains both, the spatula is quite long and it's easy to measure the acid with it.
Skin Type
All skin types.
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Ingredients
Water, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Prunus Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Oil, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Triethanolamine, Lippa Citriodora Leaf Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Allantoin, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Codium Fragile Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Disodium EDTA, Arginine
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Water - a source of minerals and moisture. It’s the most basic element of the product. Glycolic Acid - an AHA acid. It’s a chemical exfoliator that helps with wrinkles, acne, pigmentation and small scars. It helps with collagen production. It is not safe to use during the pregnancy. Remember to use sunscreen while using an acid. Glycerin - a humectant and a delicate preservative, but also a very powerful moisturiser. It helps other substances to get beneath the skin but it also regenerates the skin. Some people say it might be comedogenic, but in the comedogenic rating, this ingredient is placed very low. Butylene Glycol - a humectant and preservative, it helps other ingredients to get beneath the skin but it’s also a moisturiser. It can be comedogenic. Hyaluronic Acid - a humectant, it’s a good moisturiser that helps with wrinkles and sensitive skin. It can help with mild pigmentation problems. Prunus Amygdalus (Sweet Almond) Oil - an emollient and source of vitamin E. It helps with lipid barrier, it’s a very mild ingredient that can be used even if you have an allergy. Unfortunately, it can be comedogenic. Niacinamide - one of the forms of Vitamin B3, a humectant and an antioxidant. It helps with collagen production but it’s usually used in cosmetics due to its brightening and whitening properties. It works on acne-prone skin very well because of its antiseptic properties. It’s a good moisturiser that can balance sebum production and help with lipid barrier. Cetyl Alcohol - an oily emollient and emulsifier. Unfortunately, it might be comedogenic. Stearic Acid - an emollient and emulsifier, it can prevent skin dehydration and it prevents skin from strong detergents. It helps other substance to get beneath the skin surface, it’s also a good moisturiser. It might be comedogenic. Potassium Hydroxide - pH adjuster. It should be used in a small concentration. Triethanolamine - also known as TEA. It’s a fragrance ingredient but it’s also a pH adjuster. It’s not the safest product to use. Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract - soothing ingredient and astringent. Unfortunately, it’s not the safest ingredient to use. 1,2-Hexanediol - a preservative and humectant with antibacterial properties. Some people say that it might be irritating. Glyceryl Stearate - an oily emollient and emulsifier. Unfortunately, it might be comedogenic. Beeswax - It’s a very nourishing oily emollient and emulsifier which can help with skin regeneration. PEG-100 Stearate - an emollient, emulsifier and stabiliser. Not the safest substance for our health. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride - an oily emollient, protects skin from dehydration but it helps with product application as well - it makes a product easier to spread on the skin. Unfortunately, it might be comedogenic. Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate - an emollient that makes skin soft and moist. Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water - an antioxidant with antibacterial and antiseptic properties. It’s a soothing ingredient that helps with sebum production, acne and inflammation. Polyacrylate-13 - a chemical ingredient and film-forming agent that protects skin from dehydration. Polyisobutene - a thickener, it doesn’t penetrate the skin. Polysorbate 20 - an emulsifier, safe in use. C13-14 Isoparaffin - an emollient and thickener. This ingredient is connected to mineral oil. Laureth-7 - an emulsifier and surfactant. It can be comedogenic. It shouldn’t be used during the pregnancy. Allantoin - an ingredient with skin soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s a great moisturiser that regenerates the skin and helps with wound healing - it’s also an ingredient which you can use after a sunburn. This ingredient is recommended for every skin type. Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil - a source of fatty acids such as linoleic acid but also a source of vitamin A and vitamin E. This oil is used in cosmetics mostly because it’s a good moisturiser that helps with oily and acne-prone skin. Tocopheryl Acetate - a preservative and antioxidant. It’a s form of Vitamin E, it’s a good moisturiser and nourishing ingredient that helps with wrinkles. Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil - an emollient and antioxidant. It’s a source of fatty acids and vitamins such as Vitamin E. A good moisturiser that helps with wrinkles and cellulite, it might be comedogenic. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil - an oily emollient and antioxidant. A source of Vitamin E. It’s a good moisturiser that can help with scars and wrinkles. It can be comedogenic. Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil - a source of Vitamin A and Vitamin E. It’s an emollient that protects skin from the environmental influence such as dirt, wind, cold weather, etc. The structure of jojoba oil reminds of human sebum that’s why this ingredient is so popular. It’s a nourishing ingredient. Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract - also known as Sea Grape Extract or Green Caviar. A source of Vitamin C and Vitamin E. It’s an antioxidant and moisturiser with strong antibacterial properties. Codium Fragile Extract - also known as Green Sea Fingers, Sea Staghorn, Oyster Thief or Sponge Seaweed. The name Oyster Thief is not a joke - Codium Fragile can attach to an oyster and take it far far away. It’s a seaweed and a source of Vitamin C. It’s an antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. Centella Asiatica Extract - also known as Gotu Kola. A source of vitamins A, C and E. It’s an antioxidant with antiseptic and antibacterial properties. It can be used as a treatment for different problems like dark circles under eyes, acne, wrinkles, redness or even as an eczema treatment. It even works on cellulitis, sunburns and it can be used to remove scars that are why it is used in products for acne-prone skin. During the pregnancy, you have to use only small concentrations of this ingredient. Disodium EDTA - a stabiliser and stickiness moderator. It prevents a product from bacteria and it boosts other preservatives. Don’t use it on wounds - even on the small ones. This ingredient shouldn’t be mixed with heavy metals such as Zinc or Iron - even if you use only medicines based on these ingredients. It also shouldn’t be mixed with nitrogenous compounds. Arginine - an amino acid and an antioxidant that gives the smell to the product but it has positive meaning for our skin that’s why it is used in many anti-aging products.
Smell & Texture
It looks like a white jelly with too much gelatine in it or like a very thick pudding - just don't eat it! The smell is neutral, I can't really smell anything but maybe that's my nose.
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How does it work for me?
My main problem with this product is that scaling creams are quite new - I've seen only two scaling creams including this one from Nakeup Face (even if I know that Nakeup Face has other scaling creams with different concentrations). I've decided to skip the serum and put a scaling cream after an essence. Why I've decided to skip the serum? I used serum based on niacinamide and I was scared that both, niacinamide and glycolic acid just don't go together and that's all related to chemistry. If you add an acid to a niacinamide it'll turn niacinamide into niacin and skin might react to niacin. I'm 100% aware that this product contains niacinamide but the difference is in concentration - I'm 100% sure that this product contains a smaller amount of Niacinamide than my serum. Let's go back to the product. I've decided to use this product during the nighttime routine, I've taken a small amount of the product and spread it all over my face excluding eye area which is way more sensitive. 10% Glycolic acid is quite strong for the skin, I've decided to use this product 2-3 times per week if my skin was peeling out then I've decided to stop for couple days and start again. It's a natural process and that can happen that's why I was trying my best to remember about moisturising. I have to admit that the first uses were a little bit painful - I have some micro wounds and post-acne wounds, my skin is not perfect and that can happen. I leave the cream on my face for the whole night - I'm sure that I rub some of the cream into my pillow, but after all, it works and that's all that matter. After the night my skin is very oily but clean. The first effects weren't spectacular but I feel like pigmentation is not as bad as before, the new blemishes are fading quicker. If you follow kherblog for a longer time then you probably know that I've tried glycolic acid from Alpha-H before and I saw no differences, this time my "meeting" with glycolic acid is more successful. I think that this cream works better because it doesn't contain alcohol in 1st or 2nd place. I have to admit that I'm not sure how long this cream will work for me because I use maybe 1g of the product for a one use and that's a small amount, a very thin layer of this cream is enough to see the differences. I have to mention that this product isn't flawless, there's a PEG, there's a TEA and there's an ingredient called Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract which is banned in EU because it's a potential allergen.
Additional Information
Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract is banned in the EU because it's a potential allergen.
Where to get it
You can get Nakeup Face 10% Glycolic Acid AHA Scaling Cream (21,98$/50ml) on Jolse.
Sum up
Scaling creams aren't that popular but it seems like they are more effective than liquid forms of acids. My first attempt to try Nakeup Face product was successful and I've decided to add this product to my routine for autumn and winter. Pigmentation always takes time to fade away but it doesn't mean that we have no choice and we have to accept it - as you can see there is a product that helps us speed up this process.
Have you ever tried glycolic acid? What do you think about scaling creams?
*** This post was made in collaboration with jolse, even though it still shows my personal opinion on the topics and products***
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