Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence vs Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence - Which one should you try first?

Which mugwort essence is the best? Mugwort is a 2019 K-beauty trend. In just one year, we saw various brands coming out with new releases inspired by different kinds of Artemisia. I've tested two different Artemisia Essences - Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence and Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence. Which one is better?

What's an essence?

I've read thousands of essence definitions, but the one I feel is the most accurate is describing essence as a lightweight but a well-concentrated liquid solution. Essences are preparing the skin for upcoming steps in the routine, but they also add hydration. They are somewhere between toner and serum. Previously toner was used to balance pH of the skin after the cleansing, but nowadays it's not necessary since we've got cleansers with pH = 5,5. Some people use only essences, but I can't imagine giving up on toner.

What's Artemisia?

The whole Artemisia family is a huge group of different species. Some of them have names like Mugwort or Wormwood. People use Artemisia as a medical herb, but for example, Artemisia Absinthium is used to make absinthe. According to Greeks, Artemisia is named after Artemis - goddess of wilderness and hunt. In Korea, the origins of this plant are bit different, but they are also related to myths. Mugwort is just another name for Artemisia (쑥. The legend behind this plant is called "The Legend Of Dangun" and I found for you this illustrated version which will I believe I should share this link. The story sounds like this, tiger and bear wanted to become humans so they went to Hwanung and asked him to help them. Hwanung told them to eat Mugwort and garlic but also to stay in a cave for 100 days. Tiger gave up quite quickly while the bear spent 100 days in the cave eating Mugwort and garlic and turned into a woman. That's why Hanyul commercials for Artemisia line looks the way they are - some of them are based on this legend.

What's wrong with the hype around Artemisia?

The entire Mugwort/Artemisia fame is a new skincare fashion. Some people already said that Mugwort is the end of Cica trend. Is it? I don't think so, because we know Centella Asiatica well - we know about its positive meaning to the skin, while Artemisia is relatively new. Research on this ingredient is limited.

About Hanyul

If I have to mention one brand that got me with their aesthetic vibe, a brand that fits me the most then I guess it's going to be Hanyul. The aesthetic of the brand is natural and calming, I kinda feel safer and happier when I watch Hanyul's commercials. Hanyul is a brand inspired by traditional folk remedies, a brand which we can classify as Hanbang brand because folk remedies are nothing else than traditional medicines and Hanyul doesn't have to follow foreign trends because this brand knows the key to success - traditional herbs mixed with technology gives your skin more than you can imagine. Hanyul believes that wisdom behind natural skincare can make your skin look better, they use mild, harmless herbs in their formulas inspired by ingredients such as rice, Yuja, red beans, brown pine needles and other local plants. I've tried Yuja series before and I have to admit that Yuja Oil and Yuja Sleeping Mask are my favourite skincare products of the year 2019.

About Missha

Missha is a South Korean brand with 20 years of history. The brand history begins in the year 2000. During all these years Missha opened stores grew a lot, you can find this brand in the US, Japan, Russia and many other countries. Even at the local drugstore, I saw Missha once and lately, Sephora is selling couple Missha products - I'm not sure how about other locations but some European Sephoras sell Missha online (and in selected stores).

Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence - Packaging

I don't hide the fact that I love Hanyul's aesthetic. It reminds me a lot of Pantone and the fact they decided to use Korean version on one side and then English version on the other side makes it good for international clients, but at the same time brand doesn't lose its identity. The bottle itself is a 150 ml long bottle made out of plastic which is not a problem for me. It's easy to apply the product onto your hand. It fits the entire Artemisia line even if the colour is bit different.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence - Packaging

Glass bottle in a brown-green shade. It's a bit heavy but it looks so gracious and it feels expensive - that's why I like essences if they are in glass packaging they always feel expensive. The shade doesn't fit the entire Artemisia line, but somehow after I tried Hanyul, I do not feel so optimistic about the shape of the packaging.

Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence - Scent & Texture

Hanyul has a delicate herbal scent and a texture similar to water. It's a colourless product. The scent is almost impossible to feel.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence - Scent & Texture

The texture reminds me of water but the scent, it's herbal and I enjoy it. But there's one thing I have to focus on - the essence has a yellow hint in the colour or texture, which tells me that there might be some colourant used in a tiny concentration or it might be the natural colour of the substance.

Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence - Ingredients

Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract

Both essences have only one ingredient, but it doesn't mean that it's a pure leaf extract. Hanyul went for 3 years of the fermentation process and Artemisia Argyi from Ganghwa Island. Artemisia Argyi is known as silvery woodworm and Chinese Mugwort. In China, you can find it under names such as àicǎo or ai ye. This plant is popular in folk medicine for its anti-inflammatory properties. You can find people using this herb to treat menstruation problems and pain. Some people recommend to use it on eczema.

According to Hanyul, this essence is soothing and it fits all skin types. But, if you check APMall which is an official Amore Pacific shop - it belongs to Hanyul's 'mother-company', you can find a bit different ingredients:

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

I'm more likely to believe in this version because Propanediol is a natural solvent and moisturizer. Glycerin is one of the most popular moisturizing ingredients used in skincare and Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative. Without a preservative, the whole essence would turn bad quickly - even after the fermentation process.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence - Ingredients

Artemisia Annua Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract is also called sweet wormwood, sweet annie or Qing Hao. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, Qing Hao is used to curing fever. I found that Artemisinin is used to cure Malaria but is also sold as a supplement - no joke, I found it in one drugstore for quite a high price but more about it you can read at WHO website. According to Missha, it's a hydrating and soothing ingredient.

The key to the success of Missha is fermentation, in all the essences they use fermented ingredients. It is told that Artemisia Essence is based on double fermented Artemisia Annua Extract from Ganghwa Island. A 100% pure Artemisia extract is used in this essence, but do you spot the problem? I didn't mention that in previous posts about Artemisia, because I think we all know that ingredients below 1% (at least in Europe) don't have to be mention. So is this a pure Artemisia Extract? No, it's not. It's diluted. The fermentation process is a good thing since it makes molecules smaller and the smaller molecule is the easier it penetrates through layers of the skin. Think about it like a cake - you can't probably fit the entire cake at once to your mouth but if you cut a piece you can eat this tiny piece without a problem. One of the examples of the molecule that had problems with its size is collagen - normally, we use it in skincare as a film because it makes the skin looks good but if we want to boost collagen production then we alternatively go for Vitamin C serums.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence vs Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Essence got me with the packaging and simple solution for my skin. I didn't have any bad reactions to this Essence, it is soothing and hydrating, it's good for layering and summer. I used it during the heatwave and I feel like no matter if it's hot summer or very cold winter I will enjoy it. During the winter my skin gets dehydrated and ultra-sensitive and I can't wait to try it back then, I might even buy an ampoule and pack foam since those two concepts look interesting too. Overall, my review is short but I'm pretty sure that if you need a soothing product with a very simple formula it's a product for you but if you need a product for wrinkles, acne and a diverse number of other stuff - go for something more powerful like FTE essence from Missha.

I've tested Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence during Autumn and Winter. I really like the solution used by the brand to prevent getting too much air into the bottle, but at the same time apply a smaller number of the essence on your hands. I used both essences straight on my skin and I can say - I love them! But somehow I find Hanyul's essence better for my skin. Even if I love herbal scents, I'm more likely to go for almost no smell which I can find in Hanyul. The bottle feels more lightweight and the shape fits better in my tiny hands. The formula is not sticky - in general, both formulas are not sticky. It is hydrating and soothing, especially when I use it while using Glycolic Acid + Vitamin C combo, but I wouldn't expect fireworks from both formulas. If you want an essence that will do something more then check other Hanyul's lines. Even the moisturizer from Artemisia line seemed to be more powerful than both essences, but I can't deny that I like the feeling of the essence on my skin, even if it's a moderate moisture feeing.

So who can try both essences? All skin types should like them, but sensitive skin should always patch-test the product (other skin types too, but it's not like me or my clients do a patch test, I know that from my experience as intern esthetician).

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Line

How big is Missha Time Revolution Artemisia line? It's quite a young brand - it exists for less than a year, but we can already find here some interesting products like.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Calming Moisture Cream is probably the newest product in the entire line. It's a double fermented Artemisia extract from Ganghwa Island. This cream contains ingredients such as

Artemisia Annua Extract, Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, C13-16 Isoparaffin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, C12-14 Isoparaffin, Vincetoxicum Atratum Extract, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Vinyl Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Acrylate/​Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Citric Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Citrate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA

The most interesting ingredient in this calming moisturizer for irritated skin is Vincetoxicum Atratum Extract, it's a Swallowwort and I don't know this plant at all.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Jelly Sheet Mask is a product which should be made out of pure Artemisia Annua Extract, but I do not believe that - there are some 1% ingredients for sure. More interesting is Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Pack Foam Cleanser - a 2 in 1 product since it can work as a cleanser or as a mask. It is based on Kaolin and Bentonite.

Water, Kaolin, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Glycerin, Bentonite, Myristic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Annua Extract(10,000ppm), Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Powder, Glycol Distearate, Titanium Dioxide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, CI 77288, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Powder, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77492, CI 77499

You can find the full review of Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Pack Foam Cleanser on Kherblog.  

Missha has also a Mist type version of Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence and Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Ampoule in the offer. 

Artemisia Annua Extract (70%), Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Trehalose, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Carbomer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA 

The ampoule contains 70% of Artemisia Extract, it feels impressive, but I haven't tried it yet so I can't tell you anything about it.

Hanyul Artemisia Line

Hanyul's Artemisia line has a long history if I remember well first products from this line were released in 2016. I've tried before Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Cream and I loved it! It's a delicate moisturizer in an aesthetic jar. Let's look at what's inside: 

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Trimethicone, Dicaprylyl Ether, Artemisia Argyi Leaf Extract, Betaine, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cnidium Officinale Root Water, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Arachidyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Arachaidyl Glucoside, Fragrance, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Morus Alba (White Mulberry) Leaf Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Myristic Acid, Lauric Acid, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil

I won't tell any spoilers, you should check my review of Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Cream, I swear you won't be disappointed with this one. There's also a Gel version: Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Gel

Water, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Lysine, Arginine, Histidine, Glucose, Mannose, Xylose, Fucose, Copper Tripeptide-1, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Millet, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fragrance

Both formulas are similar, but there are some visible differences, especially in which ingredient goes first.

Hanyul released Pure Artemisia Cleansing Foam too, sadly I do not know the pH of this cleanser that's why I've never tried it because my skin reacts to the wrong pH of the cleanser harshly. 

Water, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, PEG-32, Potassium Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Lauryl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water (8390ppm), Polyquaternium-7, Fragrance, Cnidium Officinale Root Water, Angelica Acutiloba Root Water, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium EDTA

Cleansing is not only about foam. What would you say for cleansing cream? Hanyul Pure Artemisia Cleansing Cream is an option which I plan to try in the nearest future. Is a nice mix of Artemisia and Green Tea extracts.

Water, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Stearate, Cnidium Officinale Root Water(4445ppm), Angelica Acutiloba Root Water(4445ppm), Glycerin, Fragrance, Carbomer, PEG-100 Stearate, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Caprylate, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water(839ppm), Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Toner has the same size as Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence and way more ingredients. Even packaging is different, but you should still love it. 

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water (4200 ppm), Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract, Glucose, Lysine, Lecithin, Magnesium Chloride, Mannose, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Xylose, Hydrolyzed Millet, Histidine, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Copper Tripeptide-1, Arginine, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Fucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance

Hanyul Pure Artemisia Watery Calming Fluid feels to be the most intriguing product here because I do not know what it is. A toner or fluid like a foundation? Makeup base? Who knows? 

Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water (4200 ppm), Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract, Glucose, Lysine, Lecithin, Magnesium Chloride, Mannose, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Xylose, Hydrolyzed Millet, Histidine, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Copper Tripeptide-1, Arginine, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Fucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance

Need a mask? Hanyul has an option for you. Hanyul Pure Artemisia Purifying Mask reminds me of Missha's Cleansing Pack by the texture. Actually, what else would you expect from Mugwort mask? 

Water, Kaolin, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Powder, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bentonite, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Iron Oxides, Palmitic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Prunus Persica Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Juglans Regia Shell Powder, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate, Lysine, Arginine, Histidine, Glucose, Xylose, Mannose, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Phosphate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Fucose, Potassium Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Millet, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, PEG-100 Stearate, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Fragrance

Hanyul Pure Artemisia Fresh Calming Water is also an interesting product, which I feel like you can use instead of using a toner.

Water, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water (8410ppm), Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Glucose, Xylose, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Mannose, Sodium Chloride, Lecithin, Copper Tripeptide-1, Fucose, Hydrolyzed Millet, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance 02 150ml Water, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water (8410ppm), Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Glucose, Xylose, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Mannose, Sodium Chloride, Lecithin, Copper Tripeptide-1, Fucose, Hydrolyzed Millet, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Chloride, Calcium Chloride, Magnesium Chloride, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Disodium EDTA

And I guess I'll end up here because Hanyul's line is bigger than Missha's line. There are a cleansing oil, mild cleansing water and products which I'm not even sure if they are still being sold.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence vs Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence - price

Both essences have 150 ml, so what's the price difference between them? I only checked the shops where you can find both products.

Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence* costs $30.36 on Yesstyle while Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence* costs $39.81. You can use code BETWEENDOTS to get both essences cheaper. Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence* costs $25.33 on Cosmetic Love, while Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence* costs $22. The difference in Cosmetic Love is smaller. Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence costs $23.33 on RoseRoseShop, while Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence costs $23.95. This time Hanyul is cheaper. On iBuyBeauti you can get Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence for $21.95 and Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence for $22.12. Beautyboxkorea sells Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence for $30.94 and Missha Time Revolution Artemisia Treatment Essence for $34.20.

Overall, both essences are interesting choices, but personally - I prefer Hanyul Artemisia Miracle Relief Essence and the entire Hanyul's line, even if Missha has interesting products in the offer too. Which essence would you like to try?

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