It's been ages since I tried foundation sold for non-Asian countries. Because of Eros - author of Fishmeatdie and one of my favourite creative content creators, I've decided to buy Chanel Les Beiges Cushion - in the most comfortable packaging possible. After years of experience with cushion foundations and an upcoming birthday, I've decided to experiment a bit with Chanel. Who doesn't know Chanel? It's a high-end fashion & perfume brand, but is it a supreme makeup brand?
PRZECZYTAJ W JĘZYKU POLSKIM | POLISH TRANSLATION
Why I've decided to stop buying foundations in Europe?
Or I should say foundations made for the US & EU market. Every market is a bit different, and there's even a difference between one foundation in Poland, Sweden and France - I'm not joking, sometimes the lightest shades are sold in Scandinavian countries + France, but not in Poland. It kinda reminds me of the 19th century where rich people had porcelain skin and people with a suntan were treated worse because they were working in the pure sun all the time. This story translates well to makeup because many brands still ignore black people and give them a smaller range of shades. It is slowly changing, but still, you can spot a lack of equality depends on where you are - in Poland, usually having skin with a cold undertone, pale skin or black skin = problems with finding an ideal foundation. Let's be honest - selling drops that lightens or darkens the foundation isn't that helpful since they can change the formula. I'm pretty sure that kids nowadays don't know how hard it was to buy a foundation that matched your complexion - a few years and beauty business has changed a lot (at least in Europe), thanks to Fenty and KVD. Not only the choice is better, but when I was a teenager my foundation was Orange, nowadays teens have Tik Tok, Instagram and other apps - I swear I'm surprised how teens can spend money on ABH palettes like it's nothing and I'm here with my "adult money" thinking of dropping out of work but then I see my bank account and I wonder if I should be happy that I survived my near-death experience with a tram or if I made the worst mistake ever by running for my life. Anyway, when I got my first "adult money" I spent them on Skin79 BB cream which my friend recommended to me. The colour was amazing, but the acne I got after using it - almost like I ate tons of cheese. It's easier for me to find a foundation from Korean brands than the US or even local brands. That's why I'm more likely to go for Missha, Espoir, Pony Effects, etc than for Fenty, KVD, L'oreal or a local brand called Bell.
About Chanel
I'm sure you already heard about Chanel and the woman behind the brand - Coco Chanel (Coco's real name was Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel). They gave us such things as a little black dress and Chanel No. 5. We even say that Chanel took women out of corsets and gave them freedom. Chanel has a long tradition as a brand, but let's focus on the beauty part of Chanel. In 1921 Chanel releases cult No. 5 perfumes - a scent, which I strongly believe you have to grow up to appreciate these perfumes. Year later, in 1922 Chanel releases scent No. 22. In 1924 Les Parfums Chanel company was created, and so first lipsticks and powder - the first makeup collection released by the brand, in 1927 Chanel released skincare products. Chanel is a cult classic brand which we should appreciate for keeping the roots instead of releasing many new products every month - something that many brands keep doing. I'm aware that many women are scared of using red lipstick since they feel too provocative or vulgar, but believe me - if the red lipstick matches your beauty type then the red shade can make you feel more confident, not vulgar. If you search for red lipstick - start from classic brands like Chanel, Dior, Shu Uemura or NARS.
Les Beiges or Le Blanc?
I was supposed to buy Chanel La Blanc Cushion which I'm pretty sure Tiffany Young was showing in a video created by Vogue Korea - but it turns out that Le Blanc Cushion is not sold in my country - not like I didn't expect that since I already like to joke that my country turned back to medieval times with all the abortion bans and lack of freedom for women, so I bought what local Sephora got. Buying cushion foundation in Europe is hard - it's not a common format, the lady at Sephora almost sold me a refill while I needed the full, regular cushion.
Chanel Les Beiges Cushion - Packaging
Chanel's design if it comes to beauty is always minimalistic. The main colours are beige and black. It has a monogram logo on the top part. There's not too much to discuss. You can take it with you everywhere, but if you're used to microfoam cushions - I have to disappoint you, it's more like a foundation hidden under the net layer. I'm not fully happy with this solution.
Chanel Les Beiges Cushion - Texture & Scent
The scent is characteristic for foundations, but the texture is more interesting. It's a lightweight foundation based on water, so the coverage is not ultra-strong - if you want to camouflage your acne or pigmentation, it won't work, but if you use retinoids - this cushion is amazing. The rest of my foundations made my skin dry, but this one is looking good longer than others.
Chanel Les Beiges Cushion - Ingredients
Aqua (Water), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Polysorbate 85, Silica, Glycerin, Titanium Dioxide (Nano), Alcohol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Kalanchoe Pinnata Leaf Extract, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Phenoxyethanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Sorbitan Laurate, Dimethicone, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum (Fragrance), Stearic Acid, Alumina, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Aluminum Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, BHT, Maltodextrin, Potassium Laurate, Tocopherol, Ci 77007 (Ultramarines), Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499 (Iron Oxides), Ci 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Mica
Aqua (Water) is an ingredient that you can find in almost every product. Its purpose in products is easy - it's a solvent. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octinoxate is a non-stable UVB sunscreen agent. Polysorbate 85 is an emulsifier. Silica is a thickener with magical properties for acne-prone and oily skin. It absorbs sebum, but at the same time, it can reflect the light to make your skin looking healthy. Glycerin is one of the most popular humectants in skincare. There's a large number of myths around glycerin like it can clog your skin. It doesn't clog your pores, but too much glycerin can make a sticky layer on the epidermis and even make your skin dryer than before due to TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Still, it's an ingredient that we want to see in formulas. Titanium Dioxide (Nano) is a mineral sunscreen. It protects your skin from UVB and UVA (II) radiation. Usually, Titanium Dioxide leaves a white cast on the epidermis. Many people with sensitive skin prefer to use Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide instead of organic sunscreen (organic sunscreen agents contain carbon, inorganic sunscreens aka mineral sunscreens doesn't contain carbon). The nano version of Titanium Dioxide fixes the problem with the white cast (not entirely, but you can spot the difference). You might not know that, but Titanium Dioxide is a super useful colourant and sunscreen agent. If you have melasma, you want this ingredient in your sunscreen and makeup. It gives your skin a "barrier" that protects your skin from UV radiation.
Usually, when people see Alcohol in skincare, they treat it as the worst thing that exists. The fact is that Alcohol has a positive and negative meaning for our skin. It all depends on the amount of Alcohol. One of the main reasons why companies use this ingredient in their products is better penetration of the skin, thanks to Alcohol substance gets deeper than when it's used on its own. We can't deny that Alcohol kills microorganism and bacteria. It's a long topic, but if you ever search for alcohol to sanitize your hands or makeup brushes - search for Isopropyl Alcohol in 40-70% solutions, they are more effective than 90% versions. Isononyl Isononanoate is a dry synthetic emollient and it helps with product application. It can give you a smooth, silk film on the surface of the skin and it protects your skin from dehydration. Butylene Glycol is a moisturizer and solvent, but it's also alcohol. You see, not every alcohol in skincare is terrible. Some of them have positive effects on your skin - just like Butylene Glycol, which is a popular substance even in eco/green cosmetic products. Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an oily emollient ester. It's a synthetic substance used in skincare and haircare products to protect both hair and skin from water loss and soften the skin.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is lecithin after surgery - it works as an emollient, but it is also used to encapsulate the active substance in liposomes (since they are supposed to help the active substance penetrate the skin deeper).
Kalanchoe Pinnata (Bryophyllum Pinnatum) Leaf Extract or a "leaf of life" comes from Madagascar, but nowadays you can see it in Asia too. It is widely used in traditional medicine due to its antibacterial properties
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that we shouldn't be afraid of. There are strict norms for this substance in our beauty products.
Dicaprylyl Carbonate is an emollient. It makes your skincare products easy to apply to the skin.
Sorbitan Laurate is an emulsifier.
Dimethicone is a dry emollient. Some people might find clogging, but it keeps your skin moist and protect it from dehydration. It has a positive effect on the skin barrier by creating occlusion, and it helps with scars. It can also smooth your skin visually. It's also silicone that's why some people like to talk badly about Dimethicone just because of this fact, but there's no reason to be frightened. It gives your skin an occlusive film, but it doesn't suffocate your skin. We need occlusion to prevent water from TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) - to keep the skin moist. It protects your hair from dehydration and weather, and it makes it easier to brush your hair.
Potassium Sorbate is a weak preservative - it shouldn't be used on its own.
Caprylyl Glycol is a moisturizer and an oily emollient. It leaves a delicate, protective film on your skin. But that's not all, Caprylyl Glycol is useful when you want to keep your product free from unfriendly stuff like microbes. Parfum (Fragrance) is a scent substance.
Stearic Acid is an emollient that you can love or hate. The problem is that not every skin likes it - mine usually breaks out when you show it Stearic Acid.
Alumina is an ingredient that you might remember from chemistry lessons. It has various positive effects on products like absorbing the sebum or helping with pigments.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a form of Vitamin E. It's an antioxidant with some moisturizing properties. It protects your skin from free radical damage. It supports UVB protection.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer or Sepinov EMT 10 is a thickener with emulsifying properties.
Xanthan Gum is a thickener and stabilizer which you can find in food and skincare.
Aluminum Hydroxide is an emollient, but it can be used as a colourant or... a tiny help for your sunscreen. Aluminum Hydroxide is a coating for Titanium Dioxide. Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) - a chemical exfoliant. It's derived from fruits like lemon. It's a weak acid and usually weaker AHA acids act like moisturizers. In this case, Citric Acid helps with the pH level of the formula. Sodium Hyaluronate is a salt form of a popular Natural Moisturizing Factor - Hyaluronic Acid. Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a polysaccharide. It derivates from Sorbitol and is related to the fermentation process. It's a powerful humectant.
Polysorbate 60 is an emulsifier.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifier.
BHT is used in low concentrations in skincare products. In such concentrations, you shouldn't be scared of it, because it works as an antioxidant.
Maltodextrin is an ingredient that helps with sebum absorption.
Potassium Laurate is an emulsifier.
Tocopherol or Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant. It's a water-soluble ingredient. Some people think it's a natural preservative, but Tocopherol itself in formulas is not the best to preserve the product. It boosts UVB protection, and if you add Vitamin C - you'll get better effects of both vitamins.
Ci 77007 or Ultramarines is a blue pigment.
Ci 77491 or Iron Oxide Red is a red or even brownish red pigment with UV protection properties. CI 77492 or Iron Oxide Yellow is a yellow pigment, and CI 77499 (Iron Oxides) or Iron Oxide Black is a black pigment.
Mica is a pigment that brightens our skin, it gives the skin a nice reflective layer. It makes your skin look visually better.
Is Chanel Les Beiges Cushion worth a try?
If someone would tell me 10 years ago that one day I would buy Chanel foundation - I would probably end up laughing. But the situation has changed and I was able to get myself Chanel Les Beiges Cushion as a birthday present - thank God for some credits that helped me buy this cushion bit cheaper. It wasn't easy to get Chanel Les Beiges Cushion - sadly, the salesperson didn't understand how cushions work - she almost sold me a refill instead of a full-sized product. Once you buy a full-sized product, next time you can buy refills. The cushion itself is very classy, the shade is a bit too yellow for me, but still, it's not a bad match - it's quite pale but the undertones are wrong. I started to appreciate the light formula while wearing a mask, but also during the retinol treatment. It lasts quite long on my skin - maybe not 10 or 12, but about 6-8 hours and it doesn't leave the oily residue. It's a formula that I could compare to K-beauty cushions, but the solutions Chanel used are less comfortable than microfoams used in many other cushions. The application process is easy and you can feel it's a high-end product. It's a good product for every season, especially during summer and winter you can feel how lightweight and delicate the formula is. The shade I've been using is No. 10 and it's the lightest shade available in Poland.
Where to buy Chanel Les Beiges Cushion?
I bought my Chanel Les Beiges Cushion at Sephora, but you can order this cushion from the Chanel website for $80, in Europe the price is around €50-60.
I'm a fan of cushions and I wish more brands could use this solution since it saves so much space in your bag. What do you think about this solution and high-end brands following the trend?
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