Retinol, Retinal or Retinyl? It's up to you which form of Vitamin A you choose, but we can't deny - since 2021, retinoids are the top ingredients in the skincare market, including the Kbeauty market. I've tested Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer - a product based on Retinyl Palmitate to see if Kbeauty retinoid solutions are safer for sensitive skin. Are you interested to see how the test went?
Retinol became super popular lately, and even if some brands use other forms than the basic form of Vitamin A aka retinol, still many solutions are called "retinol" because marketing is the key to success. I feel like some people in marketing still think that people are idiots who will buy every tag line - no they are not, that's why instead of studying marketing and writing about beauty, I started to study aesthetic cosmetology since marketing people have usually one problem - they have no idea how to do proper research. And yes, I said that from the point of a person who works in marketing and who has to fix someone's work.
Thankfully, there are brands like Tia'm that don't need "retinol" to promote their products. Tia'm's product is called "Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer" and it has sense since Retinyl Palmitate used in this solution is a form of Vitamin A. But why does the brand use Retinyl not Retinol?
What's the difference between Retinol, Retinal and Retinyl?
Retinoids in skincare exist in a few different forms. Not all of them are available without a prescription - for example, Tretinoin which is an active form of retinoid (its other name is all-trans retinoic acid) is a popular solution for acne, but also wrinkles. Retinol, Retinal and all Retinyl -ate forms are inactive which means they are weaker than Tretinoin but safer to use on your own. They need to go through a conversion to retinoic acid. To make it simple to understand, the more conversion substance has to go through the weaker it gets:
Retinyl Palmitate (or any Retinyl with -ate ending/ester form) converts to Retinol. Retinol converts to Retinal (Retinaldehyde) and Retinal converts to Retinoic Acid.
If you look at this chain, it's easy to assume that Tia'm used ester form of vitamin A which is the weakest form, but at the same, it's the most gentle form. Retinyl Palmitate can cause you fewer side effects than Retinol.
But why do we use retinoids?
The reasons why Retinyl Palmitate or other retinoids are so popular are few. This group of ingredients works great on acne and post-acne scars/pigmentation. They speed up the cell turn-over process and inhibit tyrosinase synthesis - great if you have problems with pigmentation. But the most important thing for many people - they stimulate collagen type I & III and elastin synthesis. It means nothing like slowing down the aging process or even fixing the depth of wrinkles.
About Tia'm
Tia'm is a South Korean skincare brand. According to the brand, Tiam means "the twinkle in your eye when you first meet someone" in Persian (Farsi) language. Tia'm is aware that every skin is different and has different needs. The mission of the brand is to share knowledge through simple routines to make consumers enjoy the skincare routine.
Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer - Packaging
Tia'M has changed the look of Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer to make it fit the new design of the brand. The new design looks more minimalistic and professional. I'm glad the brand used a mix of blue, black and white. The paper box is recyclable. Inside we can find a plastic bottle with 80 ml of Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer.
Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer - Scent & Texture
Since there's Parfum in the ingredients, Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer has a delicate, subtle scent. The texture is like a light cream with a bit of yellow/ecru undertone. It doesn't leave any sticky film on the skin.
Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer - Ingredients
The list comes from Tia'm website - I removed perfume from the ingredients list since there were mixed information on website and in ingredients list. According to the packaging - there's no perfum but Bergamot Fruit Oil, Tia'm also agrees on website that the product is fragrance-free, but the ingredients list on website seems to be not updated after reformulation.
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Hydrolyzed Collagen (1%), Retinyl Palmitate (5,500ppm), Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Panthenol, Polysorbate 60, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lactobacillus Ferment, Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Extract, Adenosine
Water hides in a cosmetic product under names such as Aqua or Eau. It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. If we want to use water in skincare products, we need to make sure this water is clean and free from minerals, any microorganisms or other substances. Usually, water makes up the majority of the content of the product. Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps with the penetration of active ingredients, protects products from drying and moisturizes skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and make your hair stronger. Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Its origin can be natural or synthetic - depending on the product. It protects TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and naturally occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs - natural moisturizing factors. It's practical in haircare. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it just the opposite - it protects your skin from irritation. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a source of linoleic acid and vitamin E. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil works as an emollient. Sometimes you can see it as a carrier oil for other substances. It has anti-inflammatory properties and makes the skin barrier stronger. This oil should work on all types of hair porosity. Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. In the beauty industry, it's an emollient. Many people associate alcohol with something awful for the epidermis, but not every alcohol is nasty. Cetearyl alcohol leaves a moisturizing film on the skin to prevent your skin from transepidermal water loss (TEWL). We use Cetearyl alcohol to create an emulsion. Dimethicone is a dry emollient. Some people might find clogging, but it keeps your skin moist and protect it from dehydration. It has a positive effect on the skin barrier by creating occlusion, and it helps with scars. It can also smooth your skin visually. It's also a silicone that's why some people like to talk badly about Dimethicone just because of this fact, but there's no reason to be frightened. It gives your skin an occlusive film, but it doesn't suffocate your skin. We need occlusion to prevent water from TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) - to keep the skin moist. It protects your hair from dehydration and weather, and it makes it easier to brush your hair. 1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative - it protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin, and it has no unpleasant effects on your epidermis. Betaine is an amino acid. In skincare products, we use it for its moisturizing properties. Betaine keeps the water balance of the skin. It e wrinkles appear less visible, and it soothes irritated skin. In haircare, betaine doesn't only moisturize the hair. It makes hair soft and shiny. Betaine in cosmetics usually comes from sweet beetroots. It naturally occurs in skin and hair.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is a smaller version of collagen. In general, collagen works as a film ingredient, because its molecules are too big to get through the skin layers, that's why we use Vitamin C & other ingredients to boost collagen production. Both - regular & hydrolyzed versions are great moisturizers. Retinyl Palmitate is an ester form of cult skincare ingredient - Vitamin A. Retinoids are a huge topic, Retinyl Palmitate is an ingredient that needs to get through different processes before it works - it has to convert from Retinyl Palmitate (an inactive form) to another inactive form - retinol. Then we have to convert it once again to another inactive form called retinaldehyde and then we got one last step until Retinyl Palmitate gets to its active form - retinoic acid. What does that mean? The conversion chain is long, it makes Retinyl Palmitate weaker than other retinoids, but it has some positive meanings - it works a bit slower but it's less likely to irritate your skin. Retinoids help with various skin problems - we mostly talk about wrinkles, since retinoids make wrinkles less visible. That's not all! Retinoids speed up the cell turnover process and inhibit tyrosinase (so we can target pigmentation with them). Retinoids stimulate collagen type I and III synthesis as well as collagen synthesis. Acne-prone skin should enjoy it as well since it helps with sebum production. Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil is probably my least favourite oil. Peanut oil makes skin soft, but it also leaves a protective film on the surface of your skin. I believe Tia'm used Peanut Oil since Vitamin A is soluble in oils and Retinyl Palmitate is no different. Sadly, some people can be allergic to this oil. Olivem 1000 is a combination of Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate. It's a natural emulsifier, and beauty companies use it to create an oil-in-water emulsion. Worth mentioning it's a biodegradable formula. Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals and makes UVB protection and the natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties.
Panthenol is a humectant. It prevents skin from TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Panthenol is also known as vitamin B5, and it helps with irritation. Panthenol can soothe the skin irritated by preservatives, scent ingredients, and chemical sunscreens - it might have a meaning for lipids in our skin and skin barrier. It speeds up the healing process. It's good to use it after sunbathing. In haircare, Panthenol has moisturizing properties. If you have problems detangling your hair or hair growth go for Panthenol. It is good to mix it with niacinamide and zinc oxide. You can see it in products for atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Polysorbate 60 is an emulsifier. Tocopheryl Acetate is a form of Vitamin E. It's an antioxidant with some moisturizing properties. It protects your skin from free radical damage. It supports UVB protection. Allantoin is a powerful ingredient in skincare, and I think we have all known it since the early days. My family didn't imagine my childhood without this cream. Allantoin derives from comfrey, and it has soothing properties, but it also speeds up the healing process, which makes it ideal for acne-prone skin and sensitive skin. Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer or Sepinov EMT 10 is a thickener with emulsifying properties. Lactobacillus Ferment is an ingredient that a few years ago was a cult ingredient. Nowadays, I feel like its popularity decreased after people started to self-diagnose themselves with so-called fungal acne. If you think that your skin problem might be related to Malassezia then instead of self-diagnose, visit a dermatologist. It's a probiotic, ideal for sensitive skin, but it also helps with acne. It makes your skin barrier stronger. Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract is a source of vitamin C. In skincare, Black Currant has anti-inflammatory properties. It might have some antioxidant properties and it's recommended for acne-prone skin. Xanthan Gum is a thickener and stabilizer which you can find in food and skincare. Yeast Extract works as a humectant. Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin. One of the adenosine's roles in our bodies is being a neurotransmitter. In skin care, we use adenosine for its anti-wrinkle properties. Adenosine is an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can boost collagen production, and at the same time, speed up the healing process. Adenosine can have positive effects on reducing redness. In haircare, adenosine can help with hair loss.
How does Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer work?
Let's start with what the brand has to say about the product and then I'll share my experience. Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer is based on Retinyl Palmitate and Fish Collagen so this solution won't be vegan or vegetarian-friendly, even if Collagen makes 1% of the formula. With a new design, Tia'm decided to change the formula to make it more gentle for the skin. The product is supposed to target dry skin with wrinkles and rough texture - a problem of mine since last month. I tested this serum for 3 weeks. According to Tia'm, collagen and retinyl palmitate work in synergy to slow down aging process. The formula I wrote down is different from what I found later on the packaging - this product contains Bergamot Fruit Oil which not every skin enjoys, but it doesn't contain an artificial scent. Tia'm recommends using this moisturizer between serum and moisturizer - it's a good idea since the "sandwich" method can minimalize the irritation of the skin.
Yes, Retinyl Palmitate even if it's a gentle form of Vitamin A, can still irritate the skin. I have to admit I'm glad Tia'm mentioned that women shouldn't use Vitamin A in any form during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Some people think that Bakuchiol is a good dupe for Retinoids - nope, there's not enough evidence on this topic. Tia'm also recommends using sunscreen and that's clever! It says "always use a broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day" on the packaging.
How was my personal experience? I tried to start slow, and at first, I thought it goes well since my skin didn't get irritated. And I'm pretty sure I would be happy with the results and how gentle Retinyl Palmitate can be, but unfortunately, as usual, my skin doesn't react to Peanut Oil, since its allergy season and after the vaccine, my body decided to get easily irritated to allergens after few days I had problems using Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer since it made me scratch my skin a bit - the itchiness was especially annoying during the period since during this part of the month my body gets more prone to any irritation and inflammation. I'm sure lots of people will enjoy it, but from my experience - patch test the product first and check if you are allergic to any of the ingredients.
Where to buy Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer?
If you want to test Tia'M's moisturizer check the global Tia'M's website. Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer costs $22.47 and you can get -50% off with coupon on purchases over 30$ right now.
Overall, just because Tia'M Vita A Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizer didn't work for me doesn't mean it's a bad product - everyone is different and can get sensitive to an ingredient.
Have you ever tried Tia'm before?
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