Would you believe it if I told you there's even a recipe for perfect haircare straight from Korea? I'm not joking. I see more websites promoting a 10-step Korean haircare routine because of rising awareness of haircare. Since I live and breathe hair care, so I thought I'll tell you a bit about this trend and why or why not you should follow it.
I'm glad we're in the rising popularity of the haircare era, but haircare isn't a new trend. The focus was always on, but I know for many people choosing products that work for them is harder if it comes to haircare than skincare. I had an oily scalp since I remember and bad luck when it comes to hairdressers. There's even a photo of me on one local press website of me during one important exam when I was 15 with yellow/red hair because the hairdresser didn't remove the colour well. For me, hair was always an important part of my image, and to this day is it. Nowadays, it's my business card at work.
From my experience - not every hairdresser or trichologist knows their job well, so find someone who's gifted. If it comes to dermatologists - I wouldn't search for help in this case, since dermatologists might help you with scalp disease, but not hair. My dermatologist recommended me use gelatin which is not the best choice for low porosity hair.
Korean 10-step hair care routine
I heard about the Korean hair care routine before, but nowadays I see that a similar face 10-step routine is popular and I swear every website posts the same routine but the steps are different. I'm sure that if I would have to share my routine, mine would probably have more steps, but I want to share with you what I like and don't like about this routine I found. The eldest post on this topic was from Soompi, I also tried to search more about this topic on Unpa which is a social media app related to beauty in Korea, in magazines and I couldn't find the same routine, but I'll try to do my best to tell you products worth a try and add to your routine.
***This post contains affiliate links - you don't have to use them, they help me pay for domain and expenses related to having a website.***
Scalp vs Hair
I want to mention one thing before I start writing about each step, something I always mention to my team at work. Scalp and hair are different - There are products which we use to treat the scalp, products for hair and both. Not every product should be used on full length or scalp.
Step 1: Scalp scaler
What's a scalp scaler? It's a product that helps with hair follicles, it unclogs the scalp. The skin on the scalp isn't very different from the skin on the entire body - it also can clog or be in terrible condition. That's why exfoliation of the scalp is also important. I love using scalp scrubs because I got an oily scalp and it easily clogs, many shampoos don't work for me. If you use a scrub like Christophe Robins which I reviewed before, you might want to mix it with shampoo to make it less harsh. Scalp scalers usually contain sea salt and acids like glycolic acid or sugar. It's good to use a scalp scaler 1-2 times per week, but not too often. This treatment is like a massage on your scalp and it doesn't only help cleanse the scalp, but it also stimulates your hair to grow. The most common scalp scaler you can find is from brand CP-1.
I have one problem with this step, in some K-beauty hair care routines, step 7 is another scalp scrub - don't do that. Scrub at the beginning of your hair routine is enough, too much exfoliation is bad for your skin and hair too, moderation is key.
CP-1 Head Spa Scalp Scaler
Sodium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Betaine, Potassium Cocoate, Coco-Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Freesia Refracta Extract, Chamomilla Recutita(Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycolic Acid, Fragrance
Exfoliant used in this solution is glycolic acid.
Where to buy it: Stylekorean | Yesstyle
GROWUS Sea Salt Therapy Scalp Scaler
Sodium Chloride, Sea Water, Water, Glycerine, Cocamide MIPA, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Glycol Distearate, Sorbitol, Caprylyl Glycol, Menthol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Laminaria Japonica Powder, Caramel, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Sea Salt, Dipropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fragrance, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene
Exfoliant used by Growus is sea salt.
Where to buy it: Olive Young
Step 2: Shampoo & scalp massage
The next step is probably your regular first step. I like to brush my hair before starting any treatment so no matter if you exfoliate your skin first or if you use shampoo first - brush your hair and then use shampoo. I prefer to mix scalp scrub/scaler with shampoo every time my hair needs that so on average I do that 2 times per week. If I skip the scalp scrub and start my routine with shampoo I got three shampoos which I enjoy - Kerasys (in some countries it exists under the name KCS System), Kerastase and Rituals. Sometimes I use two shampoos because I add purple shampoo to my routine. Every scalp is different so choose the product that works well with your scalp. For dyed hair or sensitive scalp, products with milder surfactants will be better. Oily skin might need something stronger.
I know that many of my friends use shampoos with fewer surfactants for an almost entire month, and then once a month they choose something strong like Head&Shoulders or Nizoral to cleanse the scalp and build up oil. Remember that shampoo is for the scalp, you don't need to apply shampoo to the length of your hair - water mixed with shampoo while you try to remove shampoo from the scalp is enough to cleanse the hair.
Soompi added two steps in one, but I saw on some websites that shampoo and scalp massage were two separate steps. You don't need to add more scalp massage, the one you do while using shampoo is enough for your scalp.
Some of the Korean shampoos I enjoy are from brands such as Kerasys and L'ador. One of the most popular shampoos is Ryo.
Dr.FORHAIR Folligen Original Shampoo
Purified Water, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Cocamide Methyl MEA, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Biotin, Ceramide NP, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Panthenol, Adenosine, Caffeic Acid, Niacinamide, Zinc Pyrithione, Salicylic Acid, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Polyquaternium-7, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Propanediol, Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate, Ethanol, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Polyquaternium-10, Cetrimonium Chloride, Menthol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate, Trihydroxystearin, Disodium EDTA, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Ethylhexylglycerin, Zinc Chloride, Citric Acid, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argan Kernel Oil, Disodium Phosphate, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Polysorbate 80, 1,2-Hexanediol, Fragrance
Where to buy it: Olive Young
Ryo Hair Loss Care Shampoo For Normal & Dry Scalp
Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Dimethicone, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Malt Extract, Ginger Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-yuen Seed Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Guar hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dextrin, Disodium EDTA, Laureth-23, Laureth-3, Lauric Acid, Menthol, Salicylic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Ethanol, Xanthan Gum, Cocamide MEA, Trihydroxystearin, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Ethylhexyl Glycerin, Caprylic Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Where to buy it: Olive Young | Stylekorean
LABO-H Hair Loss Relief Shampoo
Water, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Lauryl Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, Trihydroxystearin, Polyquaternium-10, Caffeine, Cetyl Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Salicylate, Citric Acid, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Menthol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit/Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Dextrin, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Tetrasodium EDTA, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Viola Odorata Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycerine, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosphingosine, Biotin
Where to buy it: Olive Young
Step 3: Conditioner
The rule is simple - shampoo is for the scalp and conditioner is for the length of the hair. I always try to dry the hair a bit to apply conditioner and leave it for 5 minutes. When you choose a conditioner it's good to know your hair porosity. I got low porosity hair so it's good to balance emollients, humectants and proteins. High porosity hair prefers proteins, low porosity hair might need more humectants. Even if I know my hair, sometimes choosing the right conditioner is like a game.
CP-1 Bright Complex Intense Nourishing Conditioner
Aqua, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Methylpolysiloxane Emulsion, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycol Distearate, Amodimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Menthol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyquaternium-10, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Collagen, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Elastin, Keratin Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Silkworm Cocoon Extract, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Threonine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Proline, Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Methionine, Leucine, Isoleucine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Cysteine, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Sodium Benzoate, Perfume, Linalool
Where to buy it: Stylekorean | Yesstyle
Step 4: Hair mask
I guess it's no surprise that after Conditioner we use a hair mask. If you dye your hair you probably use a hair mask to seal the hair cuticle. There are many types of masks and some masks can be applied on the scalp (mostly the masks that prevent hair loss).
Mise-en-scene Perfect Repair Hair Mask Pack
Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Cetrimonium Chloride, Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) Butter, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Amodimethicone, Isopropyl Alcohol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Oil, Sclerocarya birrea Seed (Marula) Oil, Olive Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, Coconut Oil, Apricot Oil, Glycolipids, Disodium EDTA, Lactic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Dextrin, Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Trideceth-10, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-32, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 4, Fragrance No. 2, Hot Oil PEG-8, Glycerin, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycolipids, Fragrance, Geraniol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citronellol, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool
Where to buy it: Olive Young
Skinfood Argan Oil Silk Plus Hair Mask Pack
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Stearyl Alcohol, Amodimethicone, Dimethicone, Steartrimonium Chloride, Beeswax, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Malt Extract, Silk Amino Acids, Dimethiconol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12, Butylene Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Propylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Disodium EDTA, Octyldodecanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Acetic Acid, Fragrance
Where to buy it: Stylekorean | Yesstyle
Step 5: Vinegar rinse
Something I don't get is the popularity of vinegar. I'm glad I haven't seen anyone using vinegar in the facial routine, but vinegar detox or vinegar rinse is a no for me. Some people say it can balance the pH of the scalp and hair, but in fact, no research proves this claim or any other claim related to the popularity of vinegar rinse. My problem with this step is that we started the routine with scalp scrub and now we are adding vinegar - it's an easy way to irritate the scalp. I'm aware that brands don't put information about the pH of the shampoo and conditioner just like with face wash, but nowadays more brands are coming up with low pH shampoos and conditioners.
What I would recommend instead of vinegar rinse - another popular rinse in Asian countries is rice rinse because it works magic if you want to grow your hair.
CP-1 Raspberry Treatment Vinegar
Purified Water, Vinegar (5%), Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Fragrance, Sodium Citrate, Hexylene Glycol, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Decylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Freesia Refracta Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Extract, Ci 16185, Ci 42090
Where to buy it: Stylekorean | Yesstyle
Step 6: Scalp mask
I haven't tried a scalp mask but as I said, some masks should be applied to the entire length of the hair including scalp-like masks that prevent hair loss. I think this point should be easily added to the hair mask point because it's another form of a wash-off mask. I tried to find scalp masks and I found only two masks available at stores that ship worldwide.
Label Young Shocking Scalp Pack
Purified Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Green Tea Powder, Behentrimonium Chloride, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Seed Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract(Houttuynia Cordata Extract), Green Tea Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua (Carob) Fruit Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Limonia Acidissima Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Snake Needle Grass Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Menthol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Chromium Oxide Greens, Iron Oxide Yellow, Black Oxide of Iron, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance, Geraniol, Linalool
Where to buy it: Yesstyle
Step 7: Scalp Tonic
In some routines, online this step is added as the 8th step after the scalp mask and can be called "Scalp toner". When I think about toner in hair care, I think about a product that adds pigment to the hair, not a toner like a facial toner or tonic, but yes nowadays people use scalp and hair toners and I understand why. This type of product might add more moisture to your hair or even provide ingredients to help nourish your hair and scalp. I use Hyaluronic Acid and Rice Water in this form and I enjoy adding some extra spray between steps. People use hair tonic to balance the pH of the hair, but if you use low pH haircare products, this step seems to be something which you can skip - just like toner in your skincare routine if your cleanser helps maintain the low pH of the skin.
AROMATICA Rosemary Root Enhancer
Alcohol(Grain Fermentation Alcohol), Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Aqua, *Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil(368Mg), Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bifida Ferment Lysate(Fermented Moisturizer), Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate(Fermented Moisturizer), Caffeine(Antioxidant), Panthenol(Vitamin B5), Biotin(Vitamin B7), Thiamine Hcl(Vitamin B1 Derivatives), Pyridoxine Hcl(Vitamin B6 Derivatives), Ascorbic Acid(Vitamin C), Menadione(Vitamin K3), Riboflavin(Vitamin B2), Oryza Sativa Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Piper Nigrum Seed Extract, Salicylic Acid(Exfoliation (BHA)), *Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Menthol(Skin Refreshing Agent), Glycerin(Plant-Derived Moisturizer), Ethylhexylglycerin(Emollient), *Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, *Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, *Geraniol(Ingredient In Lavandula Angustifolia Oil), *Limonene(Ingredient In Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil), *Linalool(Ingredient In Lavandula Angustifolia Oil), 1,2-Hexanediol(Emollient)
Where to buy it: Olive Young | Yesstyle
Dr.FORHAIR Folligen Tonic
Purified Water, Ethanol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Biotin, Ceramide NP, Panthenol, Propanediol, Adenosine, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Ganoderma Lucidum (Mushroom) Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Caffeic Acid, Rosemary Leaf Extract, Ecklonia Cava Extract, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract, Rhodiola Rosea Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Lecithin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 80, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Fragrance
Where to buy it: Olive Young
Step 8: Scalp serum
Another product which I'm not using because too many products on a healthy scalp can make your hair flat and look a bit oily so when you choose a scalp serum make sure it works well with your scalp and hair condition. Some scalp serums can be great like scalp serums for the oily scalp to moderate sebum production and make your hair stay a fresh bit longer. I had quite a hard time finding scalp serum - just like with a scalp mask.
DAYCELL - MoBalA Derma Scalp Intensive Serum
Water, Butylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Chrysanthemum Zawadskii Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Acorus Gramineus Root/Stem Extract, Xanthium Strumarium Fruit Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Mentha Arvensis Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Carbomer, Menthol, Fragrance, Aminomethyl Propanol, Salicylic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA
Where to buy it: Yesstyle
Step 9: Hair serum
This type of product is new to my hair care routine but I swear good hair serum can change your hair condition. Mise en scene is a cult hair serum, and for my low porosity hair, it's the best thing ever! When I don't wash my hair the next day adding this serum + oil on the ends can make hair look good once again.
Kerasys Keramide Damage Clinic Serum
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, Ceramide NP, Keratin, Amodimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Purified Water, Propylene Glycol, Fragrance
Where to buy it: Olive Young
Mise-en-scene Perfect Serum Original
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, Disiloxane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Fragrance, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Limonene, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Linalool, Citronellol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Geraniol, Capsicum Annuum Extract, Beta-carotene, Tocopherol, Glycolipids
Step 10: Overnight mask or treatment
Another new product to my routine, but in the "Korean" routine it's a bit different because depending on the source you can leave a mask over the night and wash your hair in the morning. Other websites tell you that this step should stay on your hair for a few minutes and then you wash your hair with water and done. There are masks which you can leave for an entire night without washing or making them dry before like Rituals - the overnight treatment from Rituals is the best thing for hair difficult to brush. So yes, there are special masks to leave over the night and I enjoy them a lot. Sadly, the stores I checked didn't have any overnight masks or treatments.
Why I'm not a fan of this routine?
The main reason why I'm not a fan of this routine is that it's a routine created for the marketing of certain products. The majority of hair care lines from professional and drugstore brands are going to be way shorter. I'm not telling that these steps are bad because besides vinegar rinse I would or I do use these steps.
Still, there are some good points in this routine worth a try - scalp scrub or scalp serum if your scalp is oily or you want to grow your hair. Remember that every hair and scalp is different - just like the skin, and there's no rule that your hair care routine needs 10-steps more or less - use as many steps as your hair needs.
What these routine lacks are three steps - oil or other product to protect the ends and nourish them, thermal protection if you use any product that can damage your hair with temperature - a hair dryer etc. The last step which I think no one talks about is UV protection, especially during the summer. There are many other products like primers etc which you can add to your routine, but moderation is the key - listen to your hair just like you listen to your body and skin.
Would you use a 10-steps Korean Hair Routine? What do you think about this trend?
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