I didn't have many chances to test Japanese skincare, but Japanese sunscreens are one of the most popular j-beauty products. Even Nivea in Japan has different formulas which many beauty enthusiasts crave to see in Europe and the US. I knew that Skin Aqua Tone Up Essences are loved by many people, but I've decided to test a version that my friends wouldn't recommend. Meet Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender - a sunscreen with a lavender undertone to balance your skin.
Skin Aqua sunscreens change their formulas a lot. The Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender I tested is the 2022 version.
About Rohto Skin Aqua
Rohto is a huge Japanese corporation. The history of this company is very long. You probably know this brand from eye drops - these eye drops are available even in Europe. My biggest surprise was when I learned that Dax Cosmetics in Poland is a subsidiary of Rohto. Rohto sells many amazing treatments and medicines, but this company is also huge for its skincare brands. In 1993 Rohto released SUNPLAY Sunscreen Cream which I believe was the first sunscreen released by this company. Rohto is a mother company for many Japanese beauty brands such as Hada Labo, Melano CC, Skin Aqua and Sunplay.
What's a tone-up sunscreen?
During the summertime, not everyone wants to apply heavy makeup. There's also a group of people who don't wear makeup, but they want to balance the redness and skin imperfections. Tone-up creams help to even the skin tone, one of the most popular tone-up shades is the green one. Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence in the green shade is probably one of the most loved tone-up sunscreens on a market.
Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ - Packaging
Japanese sunscreens usually come in plastic "bags" and Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ is no exception! Inside this bag, we can spot a blue-lavender tube. I have to admit this gradient on the packaging stole my heart! The plastic tube is more elastic than the ones I'm usually dealing with. It seems to be super comfortable and light. I had it in my bag, and I didn't even notice the weight.
Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ - Scent & Texture
I wish I would remember to take photos of texture & how some sunscreens look on the skin because Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ has a bit complicated texture. It's a tone-up sunscreen. It has a slightly lavender shade, and once you apply it to the skin - it has some blue/lavender undertone, but the darker the skin is - the more visible it gets. Lots of people complain that this sunscreen made them look white/pink - it's a tone-up cream, and it won't work with every skin. When it comes to scent, to me, it smells like pure alcohol. Not a surprise since it has alcohol on 2nd place!
Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender - Ingredients
Water, Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butylene Glycol, Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica, Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Acrylates Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Silica, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Alumina, BHT, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, Ci 73360, Ci 42090, Fragrance
Water hides in a cosmetic product under names such as Aqua or Eau. It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. Water in skin care needs to fit some standards. It should be clean and free from minerals, microorganisms or other substances. Usually, water makes up the majority of the content of the product. Alcohol is an immense topic in skincare. Alcohol can be good or bad for your skin, but sometimes the amount makes a poison. Alcohol, after all, is a prominent solvent. It makes active substances penetrate the skin deeper. This effect has its cost - the skin is getting a bit irritated. Some substances can be dissolved only in alcohol. This ingredient has antibacterial properties. It works as a preservative by preventing microorganisms from growing in the product. It has some awful sides too - it can dry your skin, mainly if we use it in large amounts. Sensitive skin is not a fan of this ingredient. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octinoxate is a non-stable UVB sunscreen agent. Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps with the penetration of active ingredients, protects products from drying and moisturizes skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and make your hair stronger. Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone is silicone, it helps spread the product on skin and hair. Titanium Dioxide - is a mineral sunscreen. It protects your skin from UVB and UVA (II) radiation. Usually, Titanium Dioxide leaves a white cast on the epidermis. Many people with sensitive skin prefer to use Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide instead of organic sunscreen (organic sunscreen agents contain carbon, inorganic sunscreens aka mineral sunscreens doesn't contain carbon). The Nano version of Titanium Dioxide fixes the problem with the white cast (not entirely, but you can spot the difference). You might not know that, but Titanium Dioxide is a super useful colourant and sunscreen agent. If you have melasma, you want this ingredient in your sunscreen and makeup. It gives your skin a "barrier" that protects your skin from UV radiation. Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate or Uvinul A Plus is a sunscreen agent that protects your skin from UVA. It has the same problem as Tinosorbs - you won't find it in Canada and USA due to regulations in both countries. Does it mean that Uvinul A Plus is not good for you? No, it just means that some countries have different regulations and need more time before they allow the ingredient to use. Sodium Hyaluronate is a salt form of a popular Natural Moisturizing Factor - Hyaluronic Acid. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a form of Vitamin C. MAP is a more stable form than ascorbic acid. It's an antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor, it's a great choice to fight pigmentation. It's more suitable for sensitive skin, and it boosts collagen production. It's good to mix it with niacinamide. Passiflora Edulis (Passion Fruit) Fruit Extract is a source of vitamins and minerals. This ingredient is supposed to have antioxidant properties and hydrates the skin. Hydrolyzed Prunus Domestica is a brightening solution to help with pigmentation. It also has moisturizing properties. Rosa Roxburghii (Chestnut Rose) Fruit Extract is an antioxidant. It's a source of Vitamin C and Superoxide Dismutase. Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane - it's an emollient and silicone. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer absorbs the sebum.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is an ingredient that gained popularity lately. You might hear of it as Tinosorb S. It's a sunscreen agent that covers a larger range of UV radiation than other ingredients. Tinosorb S protects you from UVA and UVB radiation, which makes it an ideal sun protector. It's a stable ingredient so it doesn't need any additional substance, but you won't see it in the US. It can't be sold as a sunscreen in the US that's why brands like Krave decided to call their sunscreens day fluid, sun shield, daily moisturizer, etc. It's quite a new ingredient, but it is considered to be one of the safest sunscreen agents. Acrylates Copolymer is a thickener with film-forming properties. It's a hydrophobic substance, and it's quite common in sunscreens since it makes them more water-resistant. It can be used in hair styling products. Polysorbate 60 is a nonionic surfactant. It's also an oil-in-water emulsifier. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a carbomer's distant family. It works as a stabilizer and thickener. Triethanolamine regulates the pH of the formula. Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer is a synthetic polymer. It thickens the formula. Silica is a thickener with magical properties for acne-prone and oily skin. It absorbs sebum, but at the same time, it can reflect the light to make your skin look healthy. PEG-12 Dimethicone is a silicone that works as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsifier. Polystyrene is a film-making polymer. Polyvinyl Alcohol is a thickener, soluble in water. It can create a film on your skin. Disodium EDTA neutralizes metal ions in the formula to keep products fresh. Xanthan Gum is a thickener and stabilizer which you can find in food and skincare. Alumina is an ingredient that you might remember from chemistry lessons. It has various positive effects on products like absorbing the sebum or helping with pigments. BHT is used in low concentrations in skincare products. In such concentrations, you shouldn't be scared of it, because it works as an antioxidant. Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a water-in-oil emulsifier. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is a synthetic version of a mineral called Mica. This ingredient has a variety of uses - from thickener to create pigments. It reflects the light, and it's more delicate than regular mica. Lots of brands choose Synthetic Fluorphlogopite instead of Mica. Tin Oxide is a pearly pigment. It has some sun-protecting properties. Ci 73360 or Thioindigo is a red pigment with a blue undertone. Ci 42090 stands for brilliant blue FCF and Blue 1. It's a synthetic blue shade. Fragrance (Parfum) is a scent composition. It can cause allergic reactions.
How does Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender work?
Tone-up sunscreen is a concept that many people in Western countries don't understand. This type of sunscreen is supposed to be worn instead of makeup, but it can also balance the skin under makeup as a base. I'm a person who can't go out without makeup, but if the weather is really annoying then tone-up sunscreen would be my choice. I made a review of another tone-up solution from Innisfree earlier this year, but it has way lower SPF protection. There's also one thing which we have to remember - the cult of brightening and whitening products in Asia. We can't deny that in many Asian countries whitening products are still a thing. Even if brands are changing marketing in Western countries, it doesn't always go along in Eastern countries. There's always a group of people who will stick to brightening products because they enjoy having brightened skin, and that's cool and fine, as long as there's no discrimination.
Skin Aqua Tone Up series has a few options to choose from Mint version is probably the most popular one, it has a mint green undertone to balance the redness of the skin. Happiness Aura shade seems to be more red-toned. The Lavender version is supposed to add glow to the skin. In 2022 Skin Aqua added another shade called Latte Beige - this one is supposed to balance uneven skin, and it should work better on warm undertones.
When I started to test this cream I had different expectations than I usually have sunscreens since it's a tone-up sunscreen. I was expecting that my skin won't look like after makeup. I was super excited to try Skin Aqua since I know many of my friends recommend Japanese sunscreens, but I haven't had the option to try any besides Athlizm IR which turned out to be a flop. Skin Aqua is a multifunctional essence with high protection. The brand points out that this solution has moisturizing properties due to the high amount of Sodium Hyaluronate. It also contains vitamin C which is a brightening ingredient. The formula is lightweight and waterproof, but the brand also states that this product can be removed with soap or water.
I have to admit, I enjoyed the lavender shade because it makes my skin look brighter, it gave me this healthy glow. I got pale skin with a cold undertone so lavender fits me well, but I know most of my friends complained that this sunscreen made them white. The problem is that this sunscreen contains some mineral sun-protecting ingredients like titanium dioxide, and when I applied it to my hands - I couldn't wear black clothes since it transferred. Why did I start to use it on my hands? You see, alcohol is quite high in ingredients. First few days I was enjoying this palette even if the alcohol scent was a bit annoying, but the problem is that alcohol has positive and negative effects on the skin. Alcohol works as a solvent, it can help with the transportation of active ingredients like sodium hyaluronate in this solution. Do you remember when your friends or sisters used alcohol on the skin? Or a skincare line for acne-prone skin based on alcohol? Even 10 years ago it was a common, quite damaging trend. Alcohol dries the skin, but what happens when you dry the skin? Your skin tries to defend itself and starts to produce more sebum. I saw someone on the internet telling me that they looked like an oily pan after using this sunscreen, and I think it perfectly sums up what has happened after about a week of using this sunscreen. My skin started to be super oily.
The high content of alcohol in Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender didn't make it a good sunscreen to use around my eyes - it stings my eyes a lot. If your skin is sensitive then this amount of alcohol can be irritating, and I would totally recommend choosing other sunscreens from Skin Aqua and other brands than Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender for sensitive skin.
I have mixed feelings about Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender, I love the idea of tone-up sunscreen, but the alcohol in this product made me sad. I found out that Rohto also released There's also Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Spray Lavender SPF50+ PA++++ and I think that maybe not this year, but next year I should consider buying this spray or other Japanese sunscreen.
Where to buy Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender, and how much does it cost?
I bought Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender at YesStyle* with my own money. If you check the product website you can see many positive reviews of this sunscreen on Yesstyle*, since this product achieved 4,4 stars. The bottle is quite huge since a single bottle contains 80g of the product, and it costs $14.95. You can use my code BETWEENDOTS to save up to 5% off on your next order. Remember to check the PROMO CODES section to save on your orders from Yesstyle.
Overall, the formula of Rohto Skin Aqua Tone Up UV Essence Spf 50+ Pa++++ Lavender is a no for me, even if I enjoyed the tone-up properties of this product, but maybe in 2023 we will see alcohol-free formulas from Rohto and Skin Aqua.
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