Let's talk about pore care! Don't you feel like there are certain trends lately? Retinols, PDRN, cleansing balms, spicules, and pore care: lots of brands are coming out with new solutions for pore care, and some of them mix retinol and pore care. I couldn't use retinol lately, and I needed a solution to help me deal with acne and pores. Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum sounded like a great solution for my skin, but is it as good as it sounds?
How do you deal with pores?
Pore care is a huge topic on which I plan to focus more deeply soon. Pores are like canals for the skin that help in breathing. They contain hair follicles and sebaceous glands (oil glands). Everyone has pores on their skin, but because of genetics, some of us have bigger pores, and some have smaller ones. If you own acne-prone skin, you're more likely to have enlarged pores. Sadly, pores can't shrink, but we can make them less visible if we choose the right skincare treatment. Pores can clog, and if we don't take the right care of our pores, we might have to deal with the consequences since clogged pores can lead to acne. Pore care is an important part of skincare. Since pores can't shrink it doesn't mean that we can't change them at all - proper cleansing and good products with the right ingredients are helpful. The ingredients that help with pore care are Salicylic acid (BHA), Capryloyl salicylic acid (LHA), Niacinamide and Kaolin. I see that lots of brands use Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and promote it as a pore care ingredient.
Brand introduction: Hanyul
Hanyul is a Korean skincare brand. It's one of the brands from the Amorepacific portfolio - the same company that owns Laneige, Innisfree, Sulwhasoo, IOPE or Hera. Hanyul is a brand that mixes technology and tradition. The products are based on local raw ingredients such as mugwort, red rice or beans. It's one of the hanbang brands since Hanyul formulas are focused on traditional Korean medicine.
What's Hanbang?
Hanbang skincare is a term related to skincare whose roots are in Korean Traditional Medicine. Many skincare products these days are based on ingredients that are common in traditional medicine like ginseng or mugwort.
Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum - Packaging
I bought the Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum in a set, so the paper box is fully in Korean. Inside the box, you can spot an elegant glass bottle. What I love about Hanyul is that one side of the bottle has Korean writing, and the other side is in English. The version I got at Olive Young* contains an additional 7ml version of serum and Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Resurfacing Mask.
Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum - Texture & Scent
Is this a serum or a toner? Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Fit Serum has a lightweight formula, it's like a toner or water, maybe a bit more oilier than regular water, but it's not an oily product. It doesn't leave any oily or sticky residue, I would even say that you can't feel this serum at all on your skin. It has some delicate herbal scent, but it's not an artificial scent, it comes from the nature of this formula.
Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum - is it a vegan-friendly or cruelty-free formula?
According to the brand Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum is a vegan-friendly product, but the owner of Hanyul, AmorePacific is available in the Chinese market.
Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum - Ingredients
Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Betaine, Gluconolactone, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Tromethamine, Caffeine, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Salicylic Acid, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pectin, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Fragrance, Ethylhexylglycerin, Taurine, Sodium Metaphosphate, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Calcium Chloride, Lactobacillus Ferment, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract (40ppm), Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Zein
Water hides in cosmetic products under names such as Aqua or Eau. It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. Water in skin care needs to fit some standards. It should be clean and free from minerals, microorganisms or other substances. Usually, water makes up the majority of the content of the product. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 - a vitamin soluble in water. It helps with problems like wrinkles, acne, skin texture, and enlarged pores and promotes collagen synthesis. Niacinamide makes the skin barrier stronger. It might be handy in cellulite treatments. Do you want to fight pigmentation or uneven skin? Try to mix niacinamide with Kojic Acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid or Retinol.
Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Its origin can be natural or synthetic - depending on the product. It protects TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and naturally occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs, and it is a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it just the opposite - it protects your skin from irritation. Betaine is an amino acid. We use it in skincare products for its moisturizing properties. Betaine keeps the water balance of the skin. It makes wrinkles appear less visible, and it soothes irritated skin. In hair care, betaine doesn't only moisturize the hair. It makes hair soft and shiny. Betaine in cosmetics usually comes from sweet beetroots. It naturally occurs in the skin and hair.
Gluconolactone is a poly-hydroxy acid (PHA) and a gentler cousin of AHA. Brands mostly appreciate this ingredient for its subtle exfoliating properties. It's an ideal exfoliant for sensitive skin. Additionally, Gluconolactone has moisturizing properties, and if you use it for longer, you might see differences in wrinkles. There is also information that Gluconolactone might be a potent antioxidant. In haircare, Gluconolactone helps with the scalp but also adds moisture to the hair. Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps penetrate active ingredients, protects products from drying, and moisturizes skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and make your hair stronger.
Dipropylene Glycol is a solvent with moisturizing properties. Citric acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) - a delicate exfoliant and a buffering ingredient. It adjusts the pH of the formula. Dimethyl Isosorbide is a solvent, that promotes the transport of active substances. Tromethamine is a synthetic pH adjuster. Caffeine is an antioxidant that has a positive effect on your skin and body. It stimulates blood circulation, reducing redness, dark circles and puffy eyes. It's one of the first ingredients I would use to fight cellulite. In hair care, caffeine can boost hair growth, it's recommended for men who deal with androgenic alopecia. Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). It's an exfoliant with keratolytic properties. It normalizes the keratinization process. This acid doesn't only work on the surface of the skin like AHAs, but it goes deep into pores. It might have anti-inflammatory properties, but we know that acne-prone skin loves it. If you have problems with ingrowths or keratosis pilaris then salicylic acid is an ingredient for you.
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is an emulsifier. 1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative - it protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin, and it has no unpleasant effects on your epidermis. Pectin is a thickener. PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24 is an emulsifier and surfactant. Fragrance (Parfum) is a scent composition. It can cause allergic reactions. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties. Taurine is an amino acid that helps with blood circulation and hydration. It makes dull skin more radiant. Sodium Metaphosphate regulates the pH of the product. Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin. One of the roles of adenosine in our bodies is that of neurotransmitter. In skin care, we use adenosine for its anti-wrinkle properties. Adenosine is an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can boost collagen production. At the same time, it speeds up the healing process. Adenosine can have positive effects on reducing redness. In hair care, adenosine can help with hair loss.
Caprylyl Glycol is an oily emollient and humectant. It leaves a moisturizing film on the surface of the skin. Lactobacillus Ferment is a probiotic with a positive effect on the microbiome of the skin. This soothing ingredient can moderate sebum production and help with acne since it has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Coptis Japonica (Japanese Goldthread) Root Extract is an anti-inflammatory ingredient with antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. It's a source of berberine, coptisine and palmatine. Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract (40ppm) is an antioxidant and a source of flavonoids, quercetin and terpene trilactones. It boosts blood circulation. It's great for cellulite. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 boosts collagen and elastin production. It improves skin immunity.
Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals, and makes UVB protection and natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars. Pullulan is a polysaccharide, it prevents TEWL (transepidermal water loss) by creating a protective film on the surface of the skin. It makes products easier to apply and spread on the skin. Zein is a film-forming ingredient. Especially in hair care, this product can make brushing your hair easier.
How does Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum work?
Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Fit Serum or Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum, because both names are used online is quite a new product. I see that the name Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Fit Serum is used by Olive Young and a few other stores.
Hanyul uses Ginkgo leaves from local Korean raw materials, I see that it's promoted as half-pore sebum with a slightly acidic pH. Natural skin's pH is also slightly acidic. It's supposed to lower pore size by -45% in just 8 hours. I believe this is more about pore visibility than actual pore size. According to the brand, this product has a 3D effect on pores since it targets the insides of pores (by removing the excess sebum that is stuck in pores), pore walls (improves the elasticity of the pores) and reduces the bumpy structure of the skin caused by enlarged pores.
The star here is 4,5% Ginkgo Leaf Vegan Peptide™, it's a combination of Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract. It also contains 10% Niacinamide and 8,4% AHA, BHA & PHA combo. It couldn't go well in my case. Let's start with Hanyul mentioning that Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum shouldn't be used with vitamin C, retinol and devices. It's also mentioned that you can use it straight onto your skin (from the dropper) or put it on hand and apply it like a toner or essence. The other option is using 2-3 layers of Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum for better absorption.
Here's a tiny note, I have sensitive skin, what does that mean? My skin hates niacinamide in higher amounts than 2%. Usually, it gets red and did I know that my skin is going to react with redness to Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum? Yes, I bought it on my own. I might be an idiot, but I wanted to test this product for you, especially knowing that Hanyul doesn't have as much attention as brands such as Anua or Skin1004.
I'm surprised how lightweight this texture is! At first, my skin enjoyed this serum. I got redness, but it didn't really bother me. Did my pores shrink? No, at first my skin started to remove all the gunk so at first I had to deal with some acne, but this process took only a few days, my skin started to normally function, and I didn't have to deal with as many blackheads as I used to.
During the time when I couldn't use any acids and retinol, Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum saved me from acne. If I had any pimples, the acne was milder than usual if I didn't use any actives like retinol or BHA/LHA. I made a mistake I added VT Reedle Shot 100 to my routine and at first it wasn't a problem. I even thought that Neogen essence which I love and keep using might be an issue.
Read more about: Neogen Dermalogy Real Ferment Micro Essence
I checked a few solutions, I tried using Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum without essence. I tried to change toner, and turns out my skin just can't use Reedle Shot + Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum combo. So I gave up on this serum in my routine.
Read more about: VT Reedle Shot 100
Would I recommend it to anyone? Yes, because I know that some people use 10% or 20% niacinamide. Not every skin is sensitive, and although Hanyul says that this formula won't sensitize the skin, for sensitive skin AHA and 10% niacinamide might not be the best choice, but for oily skin? You might actually enjoy it.
Where to buy Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum and how much does it cost?
I bought a Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum set which contains 50ml of serum + a tiny 7ml bottle of serum + Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Resurfacing Mask at Olive Young*. Right now this set costs $41.60, but you can get it cheaper with a 50% off code. The regular price for this set is $52. You can also get this set in Dooly Edition*, the only difference is a pack of Dooly stickers, price is the same. Feel free to use my affiliate code BETWEEND0 to save on your order. Sadly, the Hanyul Ginkgo Leaf Pore Resurfacing Serum is not available at Amore Global Mall*.
Overall, it's an interesting solution from Hanyul, but sadly it's not for my skin.
How do you take care of your pores?
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