Today we are going to bust some myths. Have you ever heard that retinol shouldn't be used with Vitamin C? What if I tell you that, it's a myth and Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum or Primera Vitatinol Serum is a product that proves it? Surprised? Meet a delicate K-beauty product that is focused on early signs of aging and pigmentation.
What's the difference between Retinol, Retinal and Retinyl esters?
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum is based on Retinol. There are different forms of retinoids in skincare. Some are available for everyone, and some are available only if you have a prescription.
Retinyl esters like Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Retinyl Propionate are the weakest forms of Vitamin A, and at the same time they take more time to see the results, but the good thing is that they are very delicate for the skin. It takes them more time to work since they need to do a 3-step journey to work - this group converts to retinol then retinaldehyde, and then retinoic acid.
Retinol is a bit stronger than esters, but it can be more irritating for the skin. It works a bit faster since it only needs to convert to retinaldehyde and retinoic acid. Primera uses Retinol in AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum. Retinal is stronger than retinol since it's one step away from retinoic acid. It works faster and can be more irritating to the skin. The strongest substance is retinoic acid which is a prescription-only substance, it works fast but it's more irritating than products you can find at stores. Still, all the products related to Vitamin A need special care.
There's also a substance called bio-retinol or phyto retinol, and its name is Bakuchiol. It's not related to retinoids at all. It's derived from the seed and leaves of Psoralea Corylifolia also known as Babchi. Bakuchiol is usually compared to retinol due to its properties - it helps with acne, and aging (wrinkles and fine lines), but it also has anti-inflammatory properties. Bakuchiol is suitable for sensitive skin, and it doesn't need a slow introduction to your routine, but it's quite a new ingredient and our knowledge of this ingredient is limited. Still, some companies use it or even mix it with retinol.
Lots of websites I read introduced Bakuchiol as a product that is suitable for people who like to sunbathe - I would still recommend using sunscreen while using Bakuchiol since sunscreen protects the skin from UV radiation and side effects related to it like free radical damage.
How to start using Retinol or Retinal?
Introducing retinol or retinal to your skincare should be slow. First of all, choose the right product. I used retinol before (I used Innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum/Ampoule - depends where you live, the concentration of this retinol serum is 500IU - around 0.015%) in smaller amounts so my skin was prepared for a change. I recommend starting with smaller amounts and weaker forms - start with retinol in 0,3% or 0,5% concentration. It's good to introduce retinol to your routine slowly like using it once a week and then more often. We need to build so-called "skin tolerance" to this ingredient. So key points are low concentration and a slow introduction.
The next thing we need to remember is sunscreen! When you use retinol, retinal or products based on retinoic acid - sunscreen is a must. These substances make your skin more sensitive to sunlight. I know that many people think that you can't use retinoids during summer - you can, but you have to remember about sunscreen reapplication, and it's good to wear glasses, a hat or an umbrella. But sunscreen is not all - your skincare has to be focused on moisturizing and calming since retinoids can be irritating to the skin. Some people introduce these products to their skincare routines slowly and use the "sandwich method".
I use retinol and my skin started to get worse Retinoids are active ingredients and usually using active ingredients equals purging. This process usually takes about 28 days - as long as the skin cell turnover cycle. That's a natural part of the process.
What age is right for retinol?
I have no idea why people think that retinol or retinoids in general are only for adults. Many prescription-only products based on retinoids are recommended for teens like Differin - it's based on adapalene and even I as a teenager got it from my derm. The only bad thing about it was the fact that back then no one told me about sunscreen and its slow introduction.
Can I use retinoids during pregnancy?
Retinol and retinoids in general are not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Retinoids have teratogenic effects on embryos, they might cause birth defects. There is even a term for these defects in babies, it's called Fetal Retinoid Syndrome. If you plan pregnancy it's good to remove retinoids from your skincare earlier and switch to other ingredients. There is information that Bakuchiol is safe during pregnancy since it's a plant-derived ingredient, but I would be careful since we still lack research on this topic.
In Poland, when your dermatologist prescribes you accutane (here it's sold under the name isotretinoin) which is an oral retinoid used to treat acne, you have to sign a paper that you won't get pregnant and take contraceptive pills. I'm not sure if this has changed, but I believe it probably didn't.
Can I use retinol on sensitive skin?
Yes, retinol can be used on sensitive skin, but you have to build tolerance and introduce it slowly to your routine. According to the brand, Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum is a low-irritation serum, still, if you're new to retinol start with something that's focused on active ingredients like Primera's sister company Innisfree.
Can I combine retinol with other ingredients?
Yes! After the introduction of retinol or retinal to your skincare you can experiment and mix other ingredients with it. I heard so many times that retinol can't be used with Vitamin C, but actually, even estheticians use treatments like Retix C which is a combination of 4% retinol and 8% vitamin C. If you're experienced with retinol then using Vitamin C during the morning and retinol during the evening might be a good choice for you. Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum is a good start since it's a low % retinol and two forms of vitamin C combined.
If you're new then mix retinol with ceramides or hyaluronic acid to provide the skin with the moisture it needs. You can try using antioxidants as well.
If it comes to acid, remember that acids and retinoids help you lift dead skin cells. I wouldn't test on sensitive skin or beginner skin using acid + retinol, but if your skin is experienced then combining both can give you even better effects. Still, it's something I would not recommend for beginners or even advanced retinol users if you don't know retinoids and acids well. Sometimes a long and slow run is better than running fast. Too many activities can be too much for the skin.
What about skin cycling?
Skin cycling is a trend which I haven't tried, and the majority of my esthetician friends hadn't heard of it before it became a TikTok trend. Skin cycling is a trend based on a 4-day cycle. It's a way of using retinol which is supposed to keep your skin barrier healthy. On the first night, you focus on exfoliation, 2nd night is for retinol, and the last two nights are for repairing the skin barrier. I haven't tried this method and I'm not sure if I would try it.
What about the sandwich method?
The sandwich method is the method I used to introduce HSGN Retinally Liposomal Retinal Cream to my routine. Imagine that you have two slices of bread - in this case, your bread is a moisturizer, and you want to put cheese inside. Instead of cheese, we put retinol into these two slices of moisturizer.
Read more about: HSGN Retinally Liposomal Retinal Cream
What's the perfect skincare routine with retinol?
The perfect routine involves using sunscreen in the morning and reapplying it in the evening. It's also important to use lots of hydrating and repairing ingredients like ceramides, cholesterol, and Centella. It's also good to choose delicate formulas with no scent ingredients—at least my skin can be very sensitive to scent ingredients in skincare products when I use retinoids.
Brand introduction: Primera
Primera is one of the brands from Amorepacific's portfolio. The brand is mostly focused on the skin's barrier and its functions. The name Primera is a combination of the words Prime and Era. The meaning behind these words is "the best period". The brand is focused on seed energy, so it should be no surprise that one of the star patents used by the brand is the Seed Tech™ patent. Primera started to work on this solution in 1986. It's a solution that helps preserve skin's natural beauty and long-term health. The other important patent is Phytobiotics™. I found information that Primera was launched in 1990, but the first Primera ad I found was from 1994. This brand for years was known as eco-friendly, before rebranding Primera was known for Love The Earth campaign. In 2022 Primera went through a rebranding, since then the brand has new logo and the main colour has changed to a Seed Yellow shade that is supposed to show the low-irritation repair properties of the products.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum - Packaging
The silver box of Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum is like an art, it has a triangle shape. Inside you can find an elegant, small bottle. It's an airless packaging, it also seems like it has two elements to mix both parts - Vitamin C and retinol.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum - Texture & Scent
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum has a non-typical scent. You can smell alcohol in it. It's a solution that contains alcohol and we can't hide that. Alcohol in skincare can have some positive benefits like making transportation of active ingredients better. Primera doesn't use here liposomal retinol so they need to make the transport of active ingredients easier in some way.
I can smell some citrus scent in this formula. Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum's texture is like a liquid serum.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum - Ingredients
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Trygliceride, Nylon-12, Caprylyl Methicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ascorbic Acid (14370.8 ppm), 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (14369 ppm), Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Mannitol, Trehalose, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Sodium Citrate, Panthenol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Fragrance, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Xanthan Gum, Saponins, Glyceryl Caprylate, Carnosine, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, Titanium Dioxide, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Retinol (500IU/g - 0.015%), Glycine Max (Soybean) Polypeptide, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75, Phospholipids, Mica, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract, BHT, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Papain, Pearl Powder, Sodium Polyphosphate, Tocopherol
Water hides in cosmetic products under names such as Aqua or Eau. It's a solvent, but it's not your regular drinking water. Water in skin care needs to fit some standards. It should be clean and free from minerals, microorganisms, or other substances. Usually, water makes up the majority of the product's content. Butylene Glycol is a common ingredient in products. It's not only a solvent. We use butylene glycol because it helps penetrate active ingredients, protects products from drying, and moisturizes skin and hair. This ingredient can prevent hair loss and strengthen hair.
Glycerin or Glycerol is a humectant. Depending on the product, its origin can be natural or synthetic. It protects TEWL (transepidermal water loss), which naturally occurs in the skin. It's one of the NMFs and a natural moisturizing factor. It's practical in hair care. Glycerin won't clog your skin or irritate it—just the opposite—it protects your skin from irritation. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is a combination of coconut oil and glycerin. It's a notable emollient that is quite common in skincare. It leaves a protective film on the surface of the epidermis to save your cutis from dehydration. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride has a significant role in skin care products - it makes the application process effortless. Some people might experience pore-clogging after using Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, but pore-clogging and skin reactions to ingredients are individual. What works for you might not work for someone else.
Nylon-12 creates the texture, absorbs the sebum and gives skin a silky finishing. Caprylyl Methicone is an alkylmethyl silicone and emollient. It has a waxy texture, making the product easier to apply. It works great with natural ingredients and pigment. It's a volatile silicone so you don't have to worry - it disappeared almost right after application. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient. It's a synthetic substitute for squalane. It leaves a delicate film on the skin, it prevents skin from dehydration. 1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic solvent and preservative. It protects products from microorganisms by boosting other preservatives. At the same time, it can moisturize the skin and has no unpleasant effects on the epidermis.
Ascorbic Acid (14370.8 ppm) is an antioxidant that stimulates collagen (type I and III) and elastin production. It helps with pigmentation - both PIE & PIH. It is better to use vitamin C during the morning routine because it boosts the efficiency of sunscreen. Ascorbic Acid can fix what free radicals destroy. Brands recommend mixing ascorbic acid with ferulic acid and vitamin E. Vitamin C has a cardinal role in strengthening the blood vessels and boosting wound healing. Ascorbic Acid in a concentration above 10% might be too irritative for sensitive skin or rosacea - even some acne-prone skin might not enjoy it.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (14369 ppm) or Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a form of Vitamin C. This form is very stable in both oil and water. It's an antioxidant and skin-brightening ingredient. It stimulates collagen (type I and III) and elastin production. 3-O-ethyl Ascorbic Acid helps with PIE & PIH pigmentation - this form shows the best effects on pigmentation and post-UV-exposure skin discolouration. It's better to use Vitamin C during the morning routine because it boosts the efficiency of sunscreen. We consider 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to be the most stable form of vitamin C in skin care, and this version is suitable for sensitive skin. It's good to mix it with niacinamide and vitamin E. This form has weak points - it's the most expensive form of vitamin C. Polysorbate 20 is an emulsifier delicate for the skin.
Dimethicone is a silicone and polymer. Maltodextrin is a stabilizing ingredient that can hydrate your skin and absorb sebum. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a probiotic. A few years ago ferments became a thing in skincare because they are amazing for sensitive skin. Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate has soothing properties, it supports the microbiome of the skin. Mannitol is a sugar, and sugars in skincare have moisturizing properties. Trehalose is a disaccharide. We all know that sugar is awesome for the skin. What does it do? Trehalose similar to other sugars has water-binding properties. Trehalose kinda acts like NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor). Polyacrylate-13 is a polymer that creates a film on the skin and hair to prevent water loss.
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a polymer that works as an emulsifier and thickener. Polyisobutene is a thickener. Sodium Citrate neutralizes metal ions, but it also adjusts the pH. Panthenol is a humectant. It prevents skin from TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). Panthenol is also known as vitamin B5, and it helps with inflammation. Panthenol can soothe the skin irritated by preservatives, scent ingredients, and chemical sunscreens - it might have a meaning for lipids in our skin and skin barrier. It speeds up the healing process. It's good to use it after sunbathing. In hair care, Panthenol has moisturizing properties. If you have problems detangling your hair or hair growth go for Panthenol. It is good to mix it with niacinamide and zinc oxide. You can see it in products for atopic dermatitis or psoriasis.
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer and emulsifier. Polymethyl Methacrylate creates a film to make skin appear flawless without wrinkles or uneven texture. This effect won't stay forever, so we use it in products like foundation or primers. Fragrance (Parfum) is a scent composition. It can cause allergic reactions. Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil is an emollient with a neutral scent. This oil is a source of flavonoids, lecithin, vitamin E, linoleic and oleic acids. It works as an oily emollient, and it's a good oil for massages. Xanthan Gum is a polysaccharide that works as a thickener. Saponins are mostly used as emulsifiers or cleansing agents. They can have antioxidant properties.
Glyceryl Caprylate is a natural oily emollient and emulsifier. It creates a delicate film on the surface of the skin. It has some antimicrobial properties. Carnosine is an antioxidant and a synthetic peptide - very similar to peptides that naturally occur in the human body. It can be helpful with wrinkles and skin elasticity. Tromethamine is a synthetic pH adjuster. Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifier. Ethylhexylglycerin is a preservative with subtle moisturizing and antimicrobial properties.
Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate is a patented ingredient by Amore Pacific. It's hidden under the name Melasolv. This substance is supposed to help with blemishes, pigmentation and uneven skin. Amore Pacific wanted to create a safe formula that safely fights pigmentation disorders. That's why Melasolv doesn't inhibit tyrosinase, but it suppresses the expression of tyrosinase. According to the brand, 0,1% of Melasolv has the same effects as 2% of niacinamide. Melasolv can help you with melasma and lentigo. The formula uses technologies like liposomes and encapsulation to provide deeper penetration of the active ingredient.
Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891) is a mineral (or physical) sunscreen agent. It protects your skin from UVB and UVA II radiation and might cover some lower waves in the UVA I spectrum. It has a typical white colour visible on the skin, unless it's a nano version then this white tint might not be visible. This ingredient has a second task - it works as a pigment. Titanium Dioxide works perfectly for skin that needs visible protection like skin with melasma, nice that white pigment works as a barrier or protective film on the skin. It has one additional task, it makes products stay fresh a bit longer.
Adenosine naturally occurs in the skin. One of the roles of adenosine in our bodies is that of neurotransmitter. In skin care, we use adenosine for its anti-wrinkle properties. Adenosine is an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It can boost collagen production. At the same time, it speeds up the healing process. Adenosine can have positive effects on reducing redness. In hair care, adenosine can help with hair loss. Disodium EDTA neutralizes metal ions in the formula to keep products fresh. Retinol (500IU/g - 0.015%) or Retinaldehyde is a form of Vitamin A. Retinol turns straight into retinoic acid which makes it stronger than retinol. It helps with fine lines and wrinkles, acne and blemishes or even skin elasticity. It speeds up the keratinization process which is a process of creating new skin cells. It stimmulates collagen and elastin synthesis. It should be used during pregnancy. It's more powerful than retinol and just like retinol, retinal needs a slow introduction to your skincare routine.
Sodium Hyaluronate or sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. It's a form of hyaluronic acid and naturally occurs in the skin. Sodium Hyaluronate has strong water-binding properties. Sodium hyaluronate combined with elastin and collagen is like a scaffolding for the skin. It has hydrating properties and leaves a hydrating film on the skin, but sodium hyaluronate prevents skincare products from drying. Phospholipids are a type of lipids. They naturally occur in the human body and they work as strong emollients. They are commonly used in skincare to create liposomes. They make the skin barrier stronger. Mica is a mineral, and it works as a pigment. It reflects light. There's a controversy around this ingredient - mining this ingredient isn't always going along with proper work conditions.
Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract is a source of polyphenols and caffeine. It's an antioxidant that improves blood circulation. BHT or Butylated Hydroxy Toluene is quite a controversial ingredient. This synthetic substance is an antioxidant and preservative - in skincare up to 0,1% in a product. You don't have to be scared of this preservative. According to CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review), it's a safe ingredient. Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract adds scent and colour to the product, but it also can work as an antioxidant and humectant. Papain is an enzyme derived from Papaya fruit. It's a source of flavonoids and vitamin C. It can help with skin exfoliation and brightening.
Pearl Powder is a powder obtained from pearls. This ingredient is rich in conchiolin. It has antiseptic properties. It's supposed to absorb sebum and make your skin matte. Sodium Polyphosphate has chelating properties. Tocopherol is an antioxidant known as Vitamin E. It's an oil-soluble vitamin that fights free radicals and makes UVB protection and natural lipid barrier stronger. It's good to mix it with vitamin C for better effects. Oily skin might react with pore-clogging to vitamin E. It is not true that vitamin E works as a preservative or helps with scars.
How does Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum work?
Let's start with some patented solutions used in Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum. This serum is based on Seed Tech™ it's a solution that helps preserve skin's natural beauty and long-term health. The brand started to work on this solution in 1986. The seed saponin complex AG.VCN™ is supposed to help with the first signs of aging. Phytobiotics™ strengthen the skin barrier.
Vitamin C and Retinol can be mixed, but I wouldn't use such a duo if it's your first try with retinol. Primera's serum combines vitamin C capsules and pure retinol. This product is made out of two formulas that you have to combine.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum contains Ascorbic Acid (14370.8 ppm), 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (14369 ppm) and Retinol 500IU/g which is nothing else than 0.015% - the same amount as Innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum - the regular one in a white bottle, the blue one aka PDRN Retinol has 1000IU/g.
Read more about: Innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum
You can use it twice a day, even during the morning routine, it's a low-irritation formula. It's unique since we usually say to use retinol only at night. When you start to use the formula, you start to mix both vitamin C and retinol to make sure that you get a fresh combo.
Did I see the effects of using this retinol? Yes, I had less problems with pigmentation than I currently have. It lasted me for quite a long but I didn't use it twice a day, I used it once a day during my evening routine. Even if the formula has alcohol, my skin tolerated it well.
Where to buy Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum and how much does it cost?
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum is available on Global AmoreMall* - it's an official store that belongs to the AmorePacific group.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum* costs around $30, regular price is $37.99/21g.
At Olive Young, the set of full-sized Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum* + 7g sample costs $37.60/21g +7g. You can use my code BETWEEND0 to save on your order.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum is also available on YesStyle in three different versions. Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum* costs $38.02/21g. You can use my code BETWEENDOTS to save on your order.
It seems like Olive Young has the best offer on a single serum.
Right now you can get this serum in a few versions at each of these three stores. A set of serum* with gifts (samples of Primera products) costs $24.69/set at AmoreMall.
Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum in a set* with Primera miniatures costs $35.96.
In this case, AmoreMall has the best offer on sets with miniatures.
You can also buy a set of two Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum* for $55.24. The regular price for this set is $68.99/2x21g.
A set of two Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serums* costs $60.80/2x21g - the regular price for this set is $76. You can use coupons available currently to lower the price of the product. Feel free to use my affiliate code BETWEEND0 to save on your Olive Young order.
A set of two Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum* costs $64.75/2x21g at YesStyle
At the moment, Olive Young has the best offer on Primera AG.VCN™ Youth Radiance Vitatinol Serum double set.
If you shop at Olive Young and YesStyle, remember to use coupons, codes and affiliate or referral codes.
YesStyle referral code: BETWEENDOTS
Olive Young affiliate code: BETWEEND0
The version I tested was a 15g version, you can see that currently the name of this serum was shortened to Primera Vitatinol Serum, but the formula stays the same.
Do I plan to repurchase this product? Yes, because it was a delicate but effective formula.
Overall, I would recommend this product if you want to try using two actives at once.
Have you ever tried Primera before?
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